|Fig#||Descript||Part #||2004 Price|
|1||main jet 54, 84||44-051-xxx||$6|
|2||atomizer 54 early
atomizer 54 rear cut
|3||needle jet 1/36 series||45-118-285
|3||needle jet 54/36 series||45-120-314
|3||needle jet 84 series||45-196-276||$8|
|4||needle 54 -1
needle 54 -1
|4||needle 84 w/2.76||46-291||$7|
|5||idle jet 54, 84||44-353-xx||$14|
|6||air screw 54, 84||50-023||$6
|7||spring 54, 84||60-160||$3|
|8||slide #1 New
slide #53 New
|9||jet stock 54, 84||45-425||$15
|10||screen 54, 84||57-706||$6|
needle clip - 84
|15||slide spring 54||60-432||$6|
|15||slide spring 84 med
slide spring 84 heavy
o-ring - 84
|18||top screw 54, 84||40-518||$2|
|19||adjuster 54, 84||50-050||$7|
|20||lock nut - incl w/adjuster
|21||boot for cable 54, 84||65-851||$2|
|24||stk float w/race trim 54,84
race "Xtreme" 54, 84
|25||pivot pin 54, 84||52-058||$2|
|26||float needle 54-1
float needle soft seat 54-2
|27||lock spring 54, 84||61-420||$2|
|28||float bowl 54
float bowl 84
|29||bowl gasket 54, 84||65-584||$7|
|30||bowl clip 54, 84||61-479||$6|
|43||1/4" fuel line||special||$2 per ft
$5.25 for 3ft
Picture at the right here shows a 45 idle jet, 195 main, 2.85 needle jet, 45-425 jet stock
Repairs to consider -
I have found that trying to clean my lo speed jets of any carburettor make is a waste of time and effort. Fit new lo speed jets in any carb you happen to work on and get on to more important cleaning tasks.
Cleaning and verifying clean passageways in the body of the carb is the most important task you, as a mechanic, can do for your bike. Certainly you do want to use any tools that would scratch or remove even the slightest of metal from the body casting, so coming up with a method to do this is your challenge. Drill bits and bead blasting are not part of this process.
The items that wear or fail and should be replaced are: needle, needle jet, float, float needle, slide, main spring, boot, main jet screen, and all gaskets.
Items that should be confirmed as to being correct for your model Husqvarna are: slide, needle, atomizer, needle jet, jet stock, main jet, idle jet.
Items that will improve the performance of your Husqvarna would
float type, atomizer, needle, needle jet, main jet parts,
lo speed jet, slide, slide modifications, clip style float needle,
Why would you not fit the soft tip float needle w/clip and forget
other hard style?
The soft tip only fits an "A" series Bing at this time. An "A" series is larger in dia at the inlet. look at your carb number to verify. The new, improved #953 hard needle is what most early Huskys will use, and is the only thing that will fit. Do not be advised to purchase a soft needle that has been made from another application as they do not have "pull off" wires. The pull off wire is the most important part of the float system, yet it seems so small and insignificant.
What is the most commonly overlooked item in a Bing? The jet needle! It is worn away by the harder needle after hours of operation or replaced unknowingly by the search for best looking parts and the bike owner thinks this can be compensated for by dropping the needle down. This not the case and low end and mid range performance suffer as well as plug fouling, then the owner fits smaller main jet to compensate. Typically the needle jet size for pre reed Husky 250-450's is - 2.85.
Why replace the float pivot pin? It looks nice and shiney....Look at it more closely, it wears and oblong pattern at each pivot area and this causes float to hang up ever so slightly.
Why replace the cable boot? It is a source of air leak that can be a problem for lo speed tuning. Same concern for the top o-ring, this should be a spare part you keep on hand as well.
Carb model numbers-
As a general rule, the low numbered (1/36/101, 103, 106), 36mm Bing carbs were used in early applications 1970-72, and then as time went on and Husqvarna motor needs changed, so did the Bing configurations. A 112 would be found on a 74 Mag 250, a 114 would be found on 76 250WR and so on.
The atomizer #2 on your Husqvarna Bing should be the style with the rear half cut away. The earlier style will not give as good performance.
Early body Bings, like 1/36/101, will not have the slide guide (steel insert) staked in place. Rather than bashing on it and risk damaging the carb body, it is better to use a small amount of epoxy applied to the outside to secure this piece. Clean this body area with acetone/laquer thinnner or the epoxy won't stick.
Float needle bore is about 6.22-6.24 mm for most oem Bing carbs. This bore size uses #953 hard needle with wire. You cannot bore out a std Bing to use the A needle, there is not enough brass to allow this. you can improve flow (should you need it) by boring out the 3 aux holes around the float needle area. You can also ruin a Bing carb float needle seat by attempting to bore out these 3 aux holes and running into the seat/needle sealing area.
Float needle bore on an "A" series Bing is 7.62-7.64 mm. This
uses a #968 soft needle with wire. An oem "A" does not have the 3
54/36/xxx Bings are newer series 54-2 carb and use different internal needle and jet series. With this new series, many more choices for tuning are available. Richer or leaner above half throttle. Typically Maicos, KTM, would be using these carbs , but Husqvarna 76/77 era will use some of these. This model number is important.
I have heard that the brass, rubber tipped float
47-968 can be ground down a little bit on all three sides, until
fit the earlier float needle bore and give you an opportunity for
better seal. I have not tried this myself.