Urraco P250/300 Reference List
a technical comparision resource for all Lamborghini Miura  enthusiasts
Lamborghini Miura  P400 parts list, Lamborghini Miura P400S parts list, Lamborghini Miura P400SV,
Lamborghini Miura  P400, Lamborghini Miura P400S, Lamborghini Miura P400SV, Lamborghini Miura  P400, Lamborghini Miura P400S , Lamborghini miura parts list, Miura parts list,

If you are looking for gleaming paint and bodywork, you will need to visit the more than 100 wonderful sites available. This is not the site for you. This is primarily a website for skinned knuckles and dirty fingernails.  If you have a Miura under restoration, please e-mail me, maybe I can help. I need help in providing more detail on this site as well.

TAV Parts list
TAV Owners manual 1
TAV Owners manual 2
TAV Complete Shop manual

TAV Complete Shop Manual - Italian
Color chart for UrracoS and Espada
most Urraco documentation provided by Bryan Liss and Caleb Bradley

I need more valuable documetation for Urraco. i will add it to this site and i hope to improve and expand  this Urraco site as well
please email  - p400@comcast.net
notes from VLG and other sources -
The headlight bucket is held in place by two pins that also act as the swivel or hinges to open/close the headlight
-you need to remove the headlight from the bucket and you will have  better access and view.
 -each pin has a bolt to lock it in place ( 8mm head if I remember) ...you need to loosen (very carefully so as not to break it ) this bolt.
 -then you will be able to slide the pin away from the car body to the inside of the bucket.
 -I would suggest you make sure both pins slide easily before removing one completly, as you may ( will) damage the paint when the bucket is no longer held in place. I would use masking or painters tape around the bucket surround to protect the paint.
 - If the pins have been greased they will probably slide easily...otherwise they could be quite hard to budge and you will need rust busters, etc.
2007/02/16 -
I replaced all my valves to be swirled stainless and  totally agree that all Urraco owners should follow this practice... I paid  $23.00 US for the valves ea. and would highly reccomend doing it. As for the high revs I have not hit that mark yet but look forward to consistant 7500REV ... Race Engine Valves in California I sent them an intake and an exhaust and they responded with a valve that is "drop in ready" for the price of . and I pay all shipping. Valves were great!!!!!  - The info is: Racing Engine Valves  4704 N.E. 11th Avenue  Ft Lauderdale, Fl.  33334  Salesman was Ralph
Intake valve----S-1 BL5105  48.00 MM - 124.50 MM - 8 MM ----$23.00 ea.
Exhaust Valve ---REV  CL1161---1.500  +70  LS1  ----$23.00 ea. 
My invoice # was 82110 if they can look up that invoice for clarification. The BL5105 may be wrong as the invoice is smuged so it is a best guess..looks right to me but the main thing is the valve dimensions are correct. Glad to help as I know these are good valves and fit was perfect according to my cylinder head guy.
Cheers Glenn Weir

 (Apr 2007 Urraco#15580 restoration by Brian P)   '74 Urraco P250S #15580 - hiall,  my urraco has been in perth, australia for quite abit now,and im just starting restorations.(i came back from singapore on a shortbreak) i have decided to start on the interior first, so basically,ripping every bit of carpeting and seats etc out. ive removed the firewall from behind the rear seats too, which were glued on and had slight rust running up behind it( surface only, thk god). can anyone help me with the roof removal? theres an air duct above the rear seats which i assume lead out to those slits on the ceiling, but how can i disassemble this part so i can rust treat it?? firstly, of course is getting the ceiling off which i dunno how to.  also, any tips on where all the screws are for taking out thedashboard too..

First take off the radio panel. That is held by the edge of the instrument panel and a couple of screws entering from the glove compartment. Now reach in and unscrew the speedo cable from the speedometer.  Remove the steering wheel. That is easy if you have a 24mm spanner socket on at least 13-inch extender.
Unscrew all the black hex slot screws around the instrument panel. That is much easier to do with a hex bit screwdriver than fiddling with one of those little L-shaped hex keys.
 Now you can pull the instrument panel out of its deep recess though it may make you wince when you have to bend it about its weakest point at the center. As soon as they come into reach, unscrew the 2 heavy cables held by nuts at the back of the ammeter (you DID disconnect the battery first ??). The rest of the wires pass through 3 rectangular plastic connectors that you pry apart.  I can send you pictures of doing this on my car.  Caleb B. Urraco P250S no. 15 812hini

Brian, To remove the headliner (roof) you will need a can of (not the aerosol) of 3M adhesive remover (it doesn't damage paint, leather or vinyl). Remove the door weatherstrips and any glass that has a gasket which hides a glued edge. Also remove if there is one the panel with the sun visors and rear view mirror. With a small brush start on the door seam and soak an edge to get the remover underneath The glue will give and you can then soak and separate until the headliner edges are all free.  When removing the interior leather use the same technique of glued leather.  For rebuilding the existing leather should be kept as a pattern. The vent on the roof is a tray with drains (I'm guessing it's the same principle as those in the Miura and Espada) which will probably be rusted, hopefully not terminally. These can be cleaned up and powder coated.  Good luck.  Charles
Regarding the dash screws....I have a 74 p250 and redid the dash...open the glove box on the right side there is a side panel that is a pressure fit that you remove...you will then see 2 nuts tough to get at but I used a 1/4" drive extension and I think # 10 socket and got them off. On the other side are the same 2 nuts...remove entire instrument panel with all gauges to get at them. (To get there goes something like this)  You have to pull steering wheel ...remove the panel that surrounds the column....remove gauge panel.... and then you have access to the 2 nuts. After these 4 nuts are off the dash is then free...of course you have the centre counsel to take off and have to disconnect a bunch of switches etc but those things are all self explanatory, what you are looking for are hose 4 nuts and then the dash slides straight back towards the rear of the car as the dash has a slot that the remaining studs slide along.  Hope this helps. I am just completing my entire interior rebuild so may be able to offer other bits of advise. Feel free to correspond.Glenn Weir  P250 #15474

Pretty sure the Urraco brake pads are BMW 2002 - pads are available through eurospares in uk as an Urraco fitment or through a specialist 2002 outfit such as jaymic in the uk & are indecently cheap - even BMW's prices arn't too bad - certainly better than Lambo - handbrake brake pads are unique & should be sent off for recovery of lining - there are specialist companies available for this sort of thing & not expensive - pads are only about the size of a siver dollar/old 50p piece anyway.
 i think also whilst the callipers are unique they are simply bmw 2002 units with an added spacer - all above scourses (especially jaymic) should be considered for bits & bobs such as seals and pistons.
 i have been told that the handbrake pads were a shared unit with some vintage jag but spent fruitlesss hours asking vintage jag boys (very unfriendly lot).
 basically the parts bin stuff off the car & there's quite a lot of it is either bmw 2002 (possibly 2002tii for discs etc) and fiat 130 coupe (hard to obtain now but cheap when available)- certainly the bmw stuff is still very much available and dirt cheap - my other daily classic is a timewarp bmw 2002 and would you bellieve even the floormats are still available for this model 30 years after it went out of production..............wait for it...........IN 3 DIFFERING COLOURS!!!!!!!!!!
 amazing.   all imhu & please check & double check with local suppliers before ordering. hope this of some limited use.